The Trek Home

I headed to our hotel restaurant for their breakfast buffet.  While I was there Matt called to tell me that Melissa’s cousin and her son had come to visit and I could join them in the lobby.  This was family I had not yet met.  

The little boy’s name was Posh and he has an English tutor.  He was eager to speak English.  He asked if Matt or Melissa had any US coins.  He collects coins.  Matt went up to their room and came back with a penny, a nickel, a dime and four quarters with emblems of four different states.  Posh was tickled.

As we checked out of the hotel we noticed that they were decorating for Lunar New Years.  

The driver to the airport did not terrify us.  We checked in our eight bags. We are going home with two more bags than we had when we came.

The Bangkok airport has many statues.  Spaced throughout the ticketing area are these statues with different colored faces.  The green giant is Mangkorakarn.  He had been an ungrateful buffalo who was reincarnated as a giant and cursed to die by arrow.

We went through the fast track security, passport control and headed to the tram to take us to our terminal.  I would call it a bullet tram.  It went so fast that even Yves became concerned.

All over the international terminal are these little robots that clean and vacuum the floors.

Our first flight was from Bangkok to Taipei.  It took three hours.  Yves slept most of the way to Taipei.

We tried out two airport lounges during our four hour layover.  We left Taipei around 11:30 p.m. for an 11 1/2 hour flight to LAX.  That same flight took us 14 hours from LAX to Taipei.  When we figured out we shaved off 2 1/2 hours going the other direction we were all delighted.  But it was still a long flight and we were exhausted when we landed.  We were scheduled to land at 7 p.m. but arrived at 6 p.m.  We sailed through customs and baggage claim.  Our driver was waiting for us.  We were back to my house by 8 p.m.  We ate dinner and headed to bed. What an amazing trip. Now we begin the trek of recovering from jet lag.

Travel Day — Railay Beach to Bangkok

We have a full day of travel today.  We enjoyed our last opportunity to eat breakfast at the resort.  Chinda took Yves to meet the people sitting next to us.  When Yves gets home he is truly going to wonder where all his admirers have gone.

We checked out of the hotel at noon and had several hours worth of time to kill.  Matt, Melissa, Yves and Chinda headed off towards Diamond Cave.  I did that yesterday so I went for another foot massage.  We met up when it was time to head out.  The side of Railay that we stayed on, the side with the pier, was too windy to contemplate trying to get everyone on the boat.  So the wonderful worker from our resort got all our bags onto a cart and we started the trek to the other side.  He helped Matt get the luggage and the grandmas on board.  We were all soaked up to our crotches by the time we were all on the boat but we didn’t feel like we were going to pitch off the side this time.  Yves’ parents got him ready with his life vest and baby headphones to block out the loud noise of the longtail boat engine.  

We headed out on the rough sea but our driver did not seem to be in a race this time.  

We got to Ao Nang Beach wet but alive.  Our boat driver was not the least bit helpful getting us or our luggage off the boat. We had a baby, two grandmas, and enough luggage for a month.  The sand was hot and we were wet.  Matt and Melissa did yeomen’s work getting us and our luggage off the boat, across the sand and up the steps to the sidewalk.  When we were finally all at the top of the steps, Matt said, “I need a moment.”

We found a small, air conditioned cafe where we could sit and recuperate.  I went out in search of another piece of luggage for the flight home.  Matt and I have wanted to try mangosteens and Matt found a fruit stand on the map.  So I brought two back and they are even better than I hoped.  I told Matt that while I was headed to the fruit stand I saw a shop selling the kind of shirts he had been looking for in his size.  He and Melissa went out and Matt came back wearing the shirt.  They got more mangosteens and some rambutans.  Chinda peeled a rambutan for me.  They are also excellent but mangosteens win the prize.

By the time Matt called for a Grab we were almost dry and all in better moods.  We had a reservation at Ruenmai for dinner.  Matt and Melissa had seen a YouTube video in which a group of four guys ate there.  They declared it delicious and very spicy.  

The restaurant was outdoors in the jungle area surrounding Krabi.  It was delicious and I hear it was also very spicy.  I got the prawns in tamarind sauce.  I love shrimp and I love tamarinds and there was no spice symbol listed by it in the menu.  Melissa ordered her favorite Thai dish. She told me if I sampled her food it would burn my mouth.  

We couldn’t linger.  We had a plane to catch.  The line at the airport was unbearably long but we made it to our gate in time to learn that our plane was delayed.  It wasn’t a long delay but we were all tired and ready to get to Bangkok.  Our ride from the airport to our hotel in Bangkok was terrifying.  The driver drove like we had jumped in the van and said, “We are on the last leg of the Amazing Race.  We are racing for a million dollars. Get there as fast as you can.  We will make it worth your while.”  We made it to our hotel just before midnight.  Again we are each booked into a two bedroom suite.  This hotel is lovely and it was nice to sink into a comfortable bed.

Last full day at Railay Beach

I was awake at dawn.  It is going to be hard to leave this place.

I went down for breakfast fairly early.  I needed coffee.  Melissa had a video work call in the middle of the night and I figured the three of them would sleep in a bit.  Chinda and I enjoyed the wonders of this breakfast buffet until the family of three joined us. Yves’parents are very tired but Yves was his usually delightful self.

I announced that I wanted to visit Tham Pranangnai (Diamond Cave) this morning.  It is called Diamond Cave because during the wet season the bottom of the cave fills with water and shimmers.  No one else was interested in this little excursion.

I paid my 200 Baht fee for “foreigners” and climbed the few steps to go inside.  

There is a walkway built above the floor of the cave. 

A narrow passage way leads into the main chamber.

You can walk around the edge of the cave.  There were only a handful of people there and everyone spoke in hushed voices.  The bats where all around, communicating in high squeaks that sounded like a room of elementary-aged children giggling because their teacher used the word “rear”.

I had brought my walking sticks to help me navigate the cave, but they were useless with boards that were several inches apart and mostly cracked and broken.

It was so much cooler inside the cave than it was on the walk up to the cave.  The cave is filled with beautiful stalactite and stalagmite formations.

It isn’t a large place and I was back out on the path in about 15 minutes.  The monkeys were awake and performing for the tourists.  I kept my distance.  Signs everywhere say not to feed the monkeys.  So many people were feeding them. I followed these two guys trying to navigate the narrow streets, hauling the dirty linen in need of laundering.

Our resort has a beautiful pool.  I stopped to admire it and wished I had a pool worthy body.

At breakfast, Melissa and I discussed getting foot massages.  We headed out to the main street of Railay.  For $10 a piece we got an hour foot massage that ended with a quick shoulder and neck massage.  I wish I could have one of those every day.  While we were there a woman arrived, delivering food to people who work on the island.  We learned that locals don’t love the food here and find it to be too expensive.  Melissa asked if the woman had any mangosteens.  I would love to try one before we leave Thailand, but sadly, no.  She didn’t have any mangosteens.  On the way back to the hotel we ran into the monkeys.  I try to keep on moving whenever I see them but this mother and baby were just too photo worthy.

We reconnected with Matt, Chinda and Yves and headed down to the restaurant in our resort.  The food there is quite good.  I got Pad Thai for the first time on this trip.  It was exceptional.  After lunch I begged to babysit Yves so Matt and Melissa could do whatever they would like to do on this last afternoon before we start the trek back to the USA.  Yves took a nice long nap and then we danced to Raffi songs and I tried to get him to make an “m” sound.  Both mama and grandma require this skill. I was unsuccessful.  Matt and Melissa used this time without Yves to take a much needed nap.  

We headed back to the Railay main drag for dinner. It seemed way less crowded than other nights.  I wonder if the windy conditions during this change of seasons has deterred visitors.  During dinner Yves tried fresh coconut water for the first time.  

We walked slowly back to the hotel.  I watched the moonrise from my balcony.

Another day in paradise

I left my curtains open again hoping to catch a sunrise.  I sat on the balcony and let the cool breeze and beauty soak into my soul.  This grand adventure is almost over and I am reflecting back on all the incredible things we have done together.  Thailand is so beautiful and being with my family has been such a gift.

We enjoyed another lavish breakfast sans monkeys and took a walk over to West Railay Beach together.  Matt had wondered last night at dinner if Chinda and I would like to go on an island hopping tour. Both of us are concerned about getting in and out of the boat.  Matt and Melissa noticed yesterday that on West Railay Beach the long tail boats come up to the shore (not a pier) and put down a ladder.  So we headed over to see if that seemed doable.

We sat and watched as people rented kayaks and headed out just as the long tail boats, loaded with day trippers, headed in.  I thought the ladder looked like a great option.  Chinda wants to think about it.  We went back to our hotel.  I called dibs on babysitting Yves this morning while M & M headed out for massages.  Yves and I just looked at each other for a while until he fell asleep.  He is so sweet and I adore being his grandmother.

We headed out to lunch together at the only Indian Restaurant on the island.  The word on the street is that the food is good.  It was.  After lunch Chinda and I went to four kiosks to check on a possible island tour tomorrow.  Repeatedly we heard that long tail boats will not be giving tours tomorrow because of the weather conditions.  It is very windy.  Melissa and Matt learned from the pool bartender that we are in the middle of a change of seasons here.  It is always too windy for longtail boats to head out into the ocean during a change of seasons.  Supposedly next week the wind will go away and it will be perfect weather here.

Chinda got her turn babysitting this afternoon and then we headed out to PhraNang Beach at low tide.  We heard you can walk out to the closest island, Ko Rang Nok, when the tide is out.  It was definitely low tide.  On our side of Railay Beach there was only water at the very tip of the pier.

PhraNang is a beautiful beach area.  I was imagining a sandbar kind of easy walk out to Ko Rang Nok but it is more like a waist deep walk over across sharp stones.

Matt and Melissa headed over.

Chinda watched Yves.  You can tell how windy it is by how Yves’ hat is blown back.

When Matt and Melissa came back from Ko Rang Nok it was Yves turn to enjoy the ocean.

He had a good time.

I tried my hand at taking a family photo.

The sky was lovely and we considered staying for sunset.

Chinda and I sat down under the trees to wait.  But the monkeys were out in full force tonight.  Workers for the resort next to the beach had slingshots and they were trying to move them away.  But the monkeys would not be moved and were so active that rock started to fall down from the limestone cliff above our heads.  We headed back to our hotel.  Matt and I went out and brought back dinner for everyone to eat in their rooms. 

Adventures with Chinda

I left my curtain open so I could wake up for the sunrise this morning.  It is cloudy and windy today so it wasn’t as spectacular as I had hoped.  But I have three more mornings to wake up in this beautiful place.  I had washed out some clothes last night and left them on the balcony to dry.  When I went out there this morning, everything was scattered everywhere.  I chalked it up to monkeys.  I was missing a sock and since I brought limited clothing with me I was disappointed.  But then I looked down and saw my sock three stories below.  I think the wind came up in the night and blew my clothing around.  I rode the elevator down in my nightgown and retrieved my lost sock.  I love my Bombas.

We enjoyed the breakfast buffet that came with our hotel room reservation.  It was extensive.  They obviously work at catering to every nationality.  Yves’ parents put him in a high chair and attempted for the first time to give him some fruit — papaya, watermelon and dragon fruit.  He didn’t get the concept.  He thought he should use them for finger-painting. He was covered in dragon fruit seeds by the end of the meal but he was so happy and proud.  

In the middle of our meal the Dusky Langur monkeys arrived into the rafters of the open-air breakfast area.  The wait staff was immediately on edge.  They spoke of getting a sling shot.  But they reverted to banging spoons together and this made the monkeys scurry off to the next rooftop, but not until they have left some feces behind.  I will be very careful where I sit tomorrow.

Chinda and I decided to head out on an adventure together.  We grabbed our walking sticks and headed to the south.  It was high tide and the trunks of the trees were covered in water.  The boat to carry out the trash we tourists make was loaded and ready to head out.

We got to the south edge of East Railay and made a right to cross this spit of land to the southern portion of West Railay Beach. It is a lovely walk past stalactites and stalagmites with trees and vines growing around them.

We came to the trailhead for the East Railay view point.  I had read that it was rigorous and dangerous but nothing could have prepared me for the lack of an actual trail.

As Chinda and I were staring with wonder at this “trail” and the insane people who were heading up it, a woman said, “It is terrifying and I am afraid of heights.”  I said, “Did you just get down?”  “Yes,” she said, “but I didn’t make it very far.”  I said, “I read that there isn’t really that good of a view and besides you wouldn’t want a broken ankle.  It would ruin your trip.”  She said,  “I could live with a broken ankle but it was the loss of life I was worried about.  But my friends are up there and I feel bad about myself.”  

Chinda and I walked on slowly on our flat even concrete path, heads bent down to make sure that each step we took would be a safe one.  Chinda said, “I walk like I’m looking for pennies.”  We made it to the other side and were rewarded with this view.

Railay Beach is known as a place to go rock climbing.  All around the area there are groups set up to help the inexperienced and experienced rock climbers fulfill their need for adventure.  

I had read a blog about the Phra Nang Cave as a great place to enjoy Railay.  I found the cave and inside was a shrine.  A sign read: “Do not offer these five things to Pranang:  sex toys, red water, red flower, traditional Thai costume, strange offerings.  She isn’t a god.  She is Indian.  She believes in the phallus or lingam as a symbol of the Hindu god Shiva.”

All around the cave shrine were wooden penises…I mean everywhere.  Of course, every tourist had to have their photo taken touching one.

I also read that hardly anyone goes to this cave area but that is simply not true.  It was teeming with people because it is such a photogenic place.

There are constant boat loads of tourists on a four island hopping excursion.  People arrived in droves for their Instagrammable photo and their 45 minutes on Railay Beach.  So I took a photo of Chinda.

We decided to walk further north on this side but the tide was high and it was hard going.  I suggested we turn back but Chinda wanted to soldier on.  She said we could just dodge the waves.  In among the young and gorgeous were these two old women in tennis shoes and walking sticks.  We eventually took our shoes off but the waves were strong and relentless.  Our feet and walking sticks would get buried in the sand with each wave.   Finally, some kind of official yelled at us in Thai and motioned for us to turn around.  Chinda translated for me that he told her the current was too strong and we needed to turn back.  It was incredibly strong and we turned around and headed back the way we came, with some serious struggle.  We encountered the woman I had talked with earlier.  I said, “You shouldn’t feel bad about yourself, we couldn’t even make it walking on the beach.”  She said, “You shouldn’t feel bad either.  I walked up to that end and it is so windy that all you experience is sand hitting your face.”  Chinda and I put our shoes back on and returned the way we came.  We found a place where we could get some cold drinks and look out at the Andaman sea, enjoying this beautiful place in the way two old women with bad knees should.

The path back to our hotel is narrow and right against the water.  It wasn’t high tide but it wasn’t low tide, either.   We had to time our walk trying not to get soaked by the waves.  We got pretty wet.

While Chinda and I went for a walk, Matt and Melissa introduced Yves to the ocean.  He has found his inner water boy.

I went back to my room and washed off the sand and relaxed in my room.  When I got hungry I headed out in search of some food.  I had a Thai pancake.  I can recommend it.  I walked over to West Railway beach.  The place was packed with tourists and there were long tail boats everywhere.  

I know why people come to Railay Beach.  It is beautiful. But it was unbearable hot today so I didn’t linger, especially seeing all the burnt sunbathers.

We ate dinner at our hotel restaurant tonight.  It was good.  Yves was in a very talkative mood.  You could tell he was trying to work on sounds/words.  It sounded like he either said, “Hi, dada” or “Hi, Yai,” which is Thai for maternal grandmother.  Matt and Chinda discussed who Yves was saying hi to while Melissa and I sat quietly by.  We listed all the milestones Yves has achieved in the month we have been together.  It is fun to spend so much time with him at such a pivotal developmental time.  

The rest of the group headed up to their rooms after dinner but I decided I wanted to go for a walk in the cool breeze of the evening.  There is a full moon tomorrow night and I wanted to take advantage of the moon.   I hadn’t gone far when I realized that the cool breeze I wanted to enjoy was more of a gust of wind.  My dress flew up to my waist and it wasn’t a Marilyn Monroe moment.  I immediately turned around and headed to my room in embarrassment.  Lesson learned.  Don’t go for a walk in a billowy dress when your weather app says, “windy conditions expected.”