Treated Like Royalty

Linda and I had decided that this morning was the day we wanted to sit in a little bakery and have a pastry for breakfast.  We passed Leicester Square on our search for pastries. The little green park area in the middle of the square has been closed any other time we passed, but today it was open.  So we strolled in and found the most charming statues.  Mary Poppins:

Gene Kelly in “Singing in the Rain”:

A scene from “Get Our”:

Linda is a fan of Paddington:

I admit that I have always loved Mr. Bean:

And I couldn’t pass up a pigeon on the head of William Shakespeare:

We found just the right place near Green Park to sit outside in an arcade and enjoy a pastry.

We had tickets to an East Wing tour of Buckingham Palace.  We went through the front gate between two security officers with rifles and were led to a side door.  We went through security screening.  Then our purses and phones were taken from us.  There were to be absolutely no photos taken.  Only one person disobeyed the rule and his phone was soon confiscated from him.  Security was tight.  We all wore lanyards that identified that we were there for a tour.  Throughout the tour there were always four “chaperones” following to make sure no one darted into a side room or broke a fine piece of art.

Our tour guide spoke for 90 minutes with hardly a breath.  I had no questions for her because she pretty much answered everything before I could ask it.  A tour of the East Wing means that you walk along the full length of the second floor that faces the front of the palace.  I assumed the East Wing would be somewhere obscure.  Everywhere you turned there were incredible portraits, paintings, ornate furniture, impressive chandeliers and exquisite art from around the world.  We learned about how connected by marriage the royal families of the world are.  Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had nine children.  Victoria made sure her children married royalty of other counties.  She was referred to as the “Grandmother of Europe.”   It would be fascinating to run a genetic chart of that family!

Our last stop was to the room with the balcony that faces the front of Buckingham Palace.  It was fascinating to peer through the curtains and see all the tourists waiting outside to watch the guards march.

When the tour was over and we had once again collected our valuables we were escorted back through the front gates.  I made sure to give my “queenly wave” to all the peasants peering through the gates.

Linda and I headed to the borough of Belgravia in search of a pub that served fish & chips.  You can’t come to London without some fish & chips. We ate at Thomas Cubitt and the fish was excellent…..and so very large!

By then we were ready to rest our feet.  We walked to Victoria Station to get a quick tube ride home.  The place was packed.  Linda said I didn’t need to worry about holding onto anything in the subway because I wasn’t going to move anyway!  I know what people in London do on Saturday.  They go somewhere….anywhere….using the Underground.

Once back at the hotel I fell fast asleep and had a dream that I had been hit by a fire truck and pinned inside my car.  If Bryan were alive I am sure he would tell me what that dream says about me.  Once I was fully awake we headed to Trafalgar Square.  We didn’t realize it was so close.  We walked around and looked at all the statues.  Alas, there were no pigeons on any statue heads.

We have tickets tonight to see a concert called “Soul Sisters” in the Crypt at St. Martin of the Fields.  Every time I have been to London I have wanted to hear a concert in the crypt.  I was so glad it worked out this time.  We entered through this glass structure.

This is a photo of the crypt where you walk over the burial sites of Thomas Chippendale (the furniture maker not the male stripper), Nell Gwynne, actress and mistress of King Charles II and many more.

We had read that we could come early and order food.  We ordered the three of the four items available on the menu:  mixed olives, the antipasto and a pizza. The mixed olives looked like a can of green olives and a can of black olives dumped in a bowl.  The antipasto was mostly sun-dried tomatoes with some pickles and onions. 

The pizza had so little flavor I spent time adding olives, sun-dried tomatoes and onions to make it tastier.  We have had amazing food on this trip….if you exclude tonight’s dinner.  If you ever go to a concert in the crypt be sure to eat before you come.

The concert was two hours of fun.  The two female singers were exceptionally good, singing Whitney Houston, Chaka Kahn, Pointer Sisters, Diana Ross, Aretha Franklin, Tina Turner, Sister Sledge…..to name a few.  

They encouraged us to get up and dance. I loved watching a woman in her 70s with a cashmere sweater and leather pants dance with her friend in lace and pearl necklace, while their husbands stayed glued to their seats.  One older woman acted like a cruise director getting everyone up on their feet.  It was a concert of soul music with a geriatric audience dancing all around the room.  

Eventually, the “cruise director” got me on my feet and danced with me.  She didn’t take no for an answer.

The evening ended with 75% of the audience standing and dancing to “We are Family”, Linda and I included.

As I left the crypt I felt like I was leaving behind new friends. I left “Oliver” singing, “Consider yourself at home.  Consider yourself part of the family.”  I left the concert tonight singing, “We are family.  I’ve got all my sisters with me.”  I love London. 

Would it be London if it didn’t rain?

We left our hotel at 10 a.m., umbrellas in hand because the weather app promised rain beginning at 1 p.m. We headed for the Wolseley Restaurant, which promises a British dining experience.  We each ordered a pot of tea.  The kind of tea you order dictates the shape of your teapot.  

Linda got the full English breakfast (minus the blood pudding) and I got two soft boiled eggs with soldiers (the thin cut bread to dip in my eggs).  I was facing the kitchen and was fascinated how everything was delivered on a silver tray, even if it was just a cup of coffee.  Linda faced the restaurant and was struck by the beauty of the place.

After breakfast we had an hour to kill so we went to Fortnum and Mason’s main store.  The ground floor was all chocolates, specialty teas and coffees and very upscale and expensive Easter candies.

Then we walked through the Burlington Arcade, a chandelier lit indoor walkway with stores selling Rolexes, diamond jewelry, expensive handbags…everything Linda and I did not need but it was an interesting stroll.  We did notice that these high end stores did not seem to have customers and all the employees were scrolling on their phones.

We walked through Green Park, alive with daffodils, towards Buckingham Palace.  

We sat on the edge of the fountain near Buckingham Palace and did some people watching as the rain began.

I love to take photos of pigeons sitting on the heads of statues and there was plenty of opportunities for me to delight myself.

Our next stop was the Evan Evan’s Afternoon Tea Bus.  For 90 minutes we toured London with a live guide while we were served tea, sandwiches, scones, desserts and prosecco.  By the time we were loaded into our premium seats at the front of the double decker bus it was full on raining.  We didn’t have a photo worthy tour but we did have a full one London experience. 

Every time the bus stopped the rain would pour off the front of the bus, down the windows in front of us.  It made me giggle every time.  

Our guide was excellent.  We sipped our drinks and enjoyed our scones with jam and clotted cream while we learned to know the two women from Atlanta who were seated across the aisle.  While they were on the bus they switched their tickets from “Six” to “Magic Mike”.  Hmmm….

We took the Tube back and arrived at our hotel in the rain, glad to be able to relax and unwind. We were too full for dinner so we left the hotel just in time to woke to the Noel Coward Theatre to see “Dracula.”

The whole idea of coming to London originated with the idea of seeing Cynthia Erivo play all 23 parts of in this play.  How would it be done?  The set was just a dark stage with a large screen.  

We had heard that this production would be techno-driven but what would that mean?  I assumed that there would be portions of the play in which Erivo was off stage and we were watching the screen.  No.  Erivo was on stage the entire 2 hours (without an intermission).  There were three camera operators with her on stage as she interacted with herself on the screen.  The screen moved up and down and front to back depending on whether a vampire was flying or we were in a graveyard or she was interacting with three other characters (all of which were her).  I can’t begin to describe the genius of what we saw.  I can’t even make sense of how they accomplished the effect.  Throughout the play someone would come on stage to quickly and masterfully have her change from one outfit to another, moving seamlessly from male to female characters.  Depending on what voice she used or what color she was wearing we always knew who she was portraying.  The program listed cast:  Cynthia Erivo.   The list of lightning, camera work, voice coach, etc was long.  There was even a nail specialist because Cynthia Erivo’s fingernails are her signature look.  I tried to think of any other actor/actress who could pull off what we saw tonight.  I couldn’t come up with one.  She was exquisite in all 23 roles.  I wonder if I will ever see another play quite like this one.

On the way back to our hotel we stopped at Wagamama for some light Asian bites.  Another amazing choice.  It has been another wonderful day.

Enjoying London Without Rain

Linda and I both went to bed about 9 last night.  When I woke up at 9:50 this morning I was shocked.  How can one sleep so long?  Air flight had definitely depleted both of us.  We scurried around and left the hotel in time to walk to the London Eye for our Fast Track tickets scheduled for 11:30 a.m.  My sister and I went on the London Eye two years ago.  We unfortunately went up during a rain storm and this was our view.

Fortunately for Linda and I it is a beautiful, sunny day in London with a temperature high of 62 degrees.  The perfect weather.  

The view from the top of the London Eye was worth the money.

As soon as we exited our “pod” four men with mirrors attached to long poles, entered to look under the bench for explosive devices.  I guess London has had its share of domestic terrorism.

We walked along the Thames, headed for Borough Market to have a grilled cheese (or toastie) at Kappacasein Dairy.  Linda got in line for the raclette over potatoes.  I got in the line for the grilled cheese sandwiches.

There is no place to sit at a table so we used a cement pylon as a table/chair.  Both the grilled cheese and the potatoes were yummy but it was really too much food and too much cheese.  Luckily we were too full to try the edible insects. 

Borough Market was bustling with people and shops.  There were long lines also for fish & chips, black pudding, sausage rolls and a wrap around line for a glass of strawberries covered in warm chocolate.  

We stopped at Monmouth coffee (highly recommended by a friend) and I got a latte.  It was beautiful and one of the best lattes of my life.  They did charge me 5 pounds for the cup…still worth it.

We crossed the river on the Millennium Bridge.  We wanted to pop our heads into St. Paul’s Cathedral before returning to our hotel.  

It costs around $30 to enter St. Paul’s and we didn’t have much time left so hopped on a double decker bus rather than hoof it back to the hotel.  We collected our wits about us, changed clothes and walked to Dishoom for dinner.  It is an Indian restaurant in Covent Garden.  With help from our waiter we got the okra fries (something I have had before and highly recommend), the house chaat, Ruby chicken (a must have) with naan, rice and an amazing dessert.  

When we came out of the restaurant there was a long line of people waiting to get in.  It pays to be retired and eat dinner at 5 p.m.!

To work off this delicious meal we strolled down streets to head to Piccadilly Circus.  One side street was covered with lanterns in celebration of Lunar New Year.

Down another street we walked under lights that celebrated Ramadan.  London is such a lovely place, filled with such lovely people.

We arrived at Gieglud Theatre in good time to find our seats (on the front row of the balcony) to see “Oliver”.  One review we read said it was the best production of “Oliver” ever.

The show did not disappoint.   The children were amazing but Fagin absolutely stole the show. 

We walked back to the hotel singing, “Consider yourself at home….consider yourself part of the family.”   It was a glorious day!

Six Days in London

Back in December, I asked Linda, my travel, walking, movie-going friend, if she would consider going with me to London to see Cynthia Erivo in Dracula, in which she plays all 23 parts.  Linda said, “Absolutely!”   We have been planning this trip for weeks.  Both of us being organized people, we arrived at LAX in plenty of time to hang out in the lounge and play cards before our flight.  (Linda beat me decisively.)  

We left on Tuesday evening and arrived at Heathrow at 1:30 on Wednesday afternoon.  Neither Linda or I got more than a couple hours of sleep.  We wound our way around to the Underground and got on the Piccadilly line.  In a half hour we were at our station and trying to follow Google Maps to our hotel.  I only made Linda cross the same street twice before we were headed in the right direction.

I have been wowed by how helpful and friendly people are here.  As we left the Underground, one young man saw me hesitate at a long staircase.  He picked up my suitcase and carried it to the top.  At another staircase a young woman offered to carry my bag up the stairs. The front desk staff at the hotel was beyond nice and helpful.  In fact, one of the staff members told us he has been to Claremont several times.  I knew he was being truthful when he said that he loves to drive to Euclid in Upland and look up at Mt. Baldy.  Tonight we headed to Tesco to stock up on drinks and snacks.  We were browsing the candy aisle because…well why not…and two different women made candy suggestions to us.  I was worried that people would be cold to us given what is happening in the US these days.  But we have been treated with loving kindness.  

We unpacked and showered and headed out in search of dinner.  We ate at a French restaurant close to our hotel, Palm Court Brasserie.  Our salad with a caramel vinaigrette was delicious.  I need to look up how to make that dressing.  We dined on steak frites and had a relaxing walk back to our hotel, Resident Covent Garden.  

We are in the heart of the theatre district and the tourist part of London.  You know you are in the touristy part of town when you see rickshaws decked out in neon lights.

We were both exhausted and headed to bed quickly after we got to our room.  The real adventure begins tomorrow.

Yoko Ono or Omega Mart

Brett and Brendon are the most amazing hosts.  They are not even here and we feel their hospitality.  The house is clean and welcoming.  They left us a loaf of sourdough bread, a quiche and marmalade -- all made by Brett.  I texted Brett to ask where I might find butter.  He said there is a "wheel" of Amish butter in the refrigerator.  I thought it was a cheesecake.  We had a lovely brunch!

We decided that we would go to Omega Mart at Area 15 this afternoon.  Neither of us really knew what to expect and I'm not sure it is even something you can describe.  Just making our way from the car to the entrance led us past some incredible and incredibly weird art.

Inside the building you can go axe throwing, take a zipline next to the ceiling or enjoy the bar.

Omega Mart begins in a fake grocery store with weird items like cans of dehydrated water...

...Plausible Deniability laundry detergent

...WTF pill boxes for your Wednesday, Thursday, Friday travel

...a meat counter 

...with items like this cheese platter of The Scream Cheese and Touch of Bleu. 

You can enter into the back of the store through several secret passageways.  

For more than the cost of general admission you can choose to experience an alternate reality and try to figure out the story hidden inside Omega Mart.  What I read said it takes about 6 hours to complete....so, no.  We wondered around trying to make sense of what we were seeing.  It is a blacklight, psychedelic, strange music venue with an underlying message about the folly of capitalism, consumerism and corporate greed.  

You travel from corner to secret room up a set of stairs and around blind corners while talking on phones, pushing buttons, deciphering codes and dodging small children.  It truly is indescribable.

At one point Linda said, "You thought the Yoko Ono exhibit was weird."  I replied, "I still think it was weird."  We went to the Tate Modern together last May and saw the very strange Yoko Ono exhibit.  Omega Mart is a different weird.  After an hour and a half of wandering around with a quick stop at the bar (behind the pharmacy) for mac & cheese popcorn and some drinks we headed back home to get ready for our evening out.

Our reservations for dinner were at Diner Ross at the Linq.  Diner Ross is a Spiegelworld creation.  Spiegelworld is dedicated to art -- the art of theater, the art of cocktails and the art of surprise.  Diner Ross is connected to a Spiegelworld show called Disco Show.  We were greeted by these two hosts.

We entered through a room that made me contemplate what it would be like to live inside a disco ball -- not fun.  We waited a few minutes in a lobby/bar that was like a NY subway station.  We went into the phone and found this sticker on the receiver.

The phone booth was really a photo booth.  You punch in your phone number and then use the coin return to activate each photo.  You are supposed to get your photos texted to you.  I still haven't received mine.

Then you climb a long flight of stairs to another bar and a dance area.  The hot dog stand is also the hostess desk.  

The restaurant is a diner, with another bar, of course.  We got champagne pina coladas.  Why have I never heard of this before?  We got waygu pigs in a blanket (delicious).  Linda got roasted chicken with a brioche stuffing.  I got steak frites.  The wait staff is dressed like they are going to a disco.  The music on the speakers is all disco music.   I expected to have my senses overwhelmed  but it was really fine.  I only had to ask Linda to repeat what she had just said about four times.  The champagne pina colada was my favorite part of the experience but I really shouldn't drink rum

After dinner we had a few minutes before our show.  Linda demonstrated how to use a machine to play roulette.  But we didn't linger long because we had tickets to see the Mat Franco show.  Franco is a magician who won on America's Got Talent ten years ago.  Our seats were back far enough so that we wouldn't be brought up onto the stage but close enough so we could easily see.  It turns out he brings people up onto the stage from quite a ways back and he brings people up onto the stage for most of his tricks.  We slipped on n94 masks assuming that he wouldn't take someone onto the stage wearing a mask.  Pretty smart, huh?  You can use that trick if you are an introvert and ever at a magic show.

For a little over an hour Mat Franco wowed us with magic tricks.  He didn't cut anyone in half or pull a rabbit out of a hat.  He is a master of card tricks and other sleight of hand tricks.  The trick he did that amazed me the most was when he borrowed someone's phone to take photos of her, dropped the phone and then used a knife to cut open a table at the back of the theater, where audience members were sitting, and pulled out her phone.

We went back to the casino so I could try using a blackjack machine.  My goal was to win the cost of my dinner.  I failed.

It was a day of overstimulating my senses and I was ready for bed.