"You Paid to Look at a Hole in the Ground"

Our second flight was from Heathrow to Johannesburg. We were better prepared to take full advantage of our business class seats on this second flight. We each watched a movie, ate our dinner, took something to make us sleep and crashed. I slept until it was time for breakfast. Gayle had the window seat and looked wistfully out at Africa as we landed.

There was a mix up so we actually had two men escort us through customs. They saw how long the line was for passport control so they directed us to take the line for locals. Then when we got to the head of the line they slipped in and moved us to the head of international travellers. Once through the airport they passed us on to another woman who got us to our driver. His name was Sibu and he was an excellent driver and guide. 

Sibu told us that the traffic to our hotel at this time of the morning would be a nightmare and suggested we head straight for our first excursion. We acquiesced with disappointment. We rode in the backseat of Sibu's lovely Mercedes Benz for an hour and twenty minutes. He told us the history of South Africa. From now on we will refer to Johannesburg as Jo'burg so that we don't use the name of the colonizer.

We toured parts of the Cradle of Humankind, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Cradle of Humankind is a complex of limestone caves that are rich with paleontological finds. The area encompasses 180 square miles. We started at the Maropeng Visitor Centre. We went on a tour with a group of "pensioners" from Durbin.  One of them was 92. It was fine because both of us were so tired we all moved at the same speed. 

Down some stairs they got us on four person boats and sent us on a ride reminiscent of It's a Small World but with experiences of water, ice, wind, fire and earth. It was beyond hokey. Then we went through their museum which told us about Mrs Ples the most complete skull of an Australopithecus africanus ever found in South Africa. Home sapiens did not descend from this branch, but we are relatives. The visitor center has a strong message of creation care.

Outside the visitor center is the Long March to Freedom Monument. It is a collection of over 100 bronze statues (created by different South African artists) of people who made massive impacts on the struggle for equality in South Africa. It was stunning, mesmerizing and hopeful. As I walked past this crowd of saints I spoke their names and thanked them for their courage and tenacity.

Back in the car we drove 10 km to the Sterkfontein Cave visitor center. We donned hairnets and hardhats and then went through another museum. By this time we were so tired, hungry and hot we couldn't focus on the details of the place.

Our guide down into the cave was a young man with a very wry sense of humor. He said, "You paid to look at a hole in the ground." So off we went. It was a short hike to the cave and then 129 steps down into the dark and the cool. We saw no bats, no stalactites or stalagmites and no excavations.  We saw a hole in the ground in which there are several openings to the sky. When the rains come they wash things down into the cave, which is why it is so archaeological rich. 

Then we headed up the 229 steps back up. The route up is different than the path down and requires you to get down on to your butt in locations and walk like a duck in other places. We had no idea we were going on a strenuous adventure. By the time we made it back to our driver we were completely spent. We got sandwiches and ate while he drove us back to Jo'burg.

We are spending the next two nights in the Peech Hotel. It is gated and lovely. I feel like I am staying in a resort without others nearby. It has that illusion. We decided to forego dinner and just be glad for a place to catch-up with ourselves. I slept. Gayle prepared herself for tomorrow. Another adventure awaits us then.

And We are Off

For a year my sister, Gayle, and I have been planning an adventure. We knew we wanted to travel together but first we had decide where we would go. Eventually we landed on South Africa. It started out as a 2 week vacation but when we learned just how long it would take to get there and then each made our must-see list it became clear that we needed at least three weeks. 

Yesterday, Gayle arrived in Southern California in anticipation of our journey. We took it easy today. We ran some errands and then went out for sushi (I had eaten up my food because I knew I would be gone).

In the afternoon we got pedicures.

My boyfriend, Ken, drove us to the airport. We got through security in no time and headed to the lounge for British Airways. What a fabulous lounge, with a great buffet. We ate, charged our electronics and realized just how tired we are. It takes quite a bit of energy to get ready for international travel.

We fly first to London and then on to Johannesburg. Our plane left a little late. We splurged on Business Class because we will spend 24 hours in the air and because Gayle has back issues. We were greeted with champagne, asked to fill out a card on when we wanted to be wakened, and offered a dinner menu. Gayle and I skipped the dinner but each ordered a different dessert. They were so tiny that the flight attendant referred to them as a suggestion of a dessert. We skipped all the entertainment offerings, reclined our seats to flat and crashed....as best as you can crammed  into a tiny little cattle stall. We were awakened with coffee, beautiful fruit cut up in tiny bit size pieces (a suggestion of fruit) and a croissant. When we finished, the flight attendant asked if we would now like our breakfast. We declined.

We had to go through security...no TSA Pre for us here. We hiked to our airport lounge and took showers. It is amazing what a shower can do for one's mood. We are drinking cappuccinos, eating cucumbers and waiting for our next long flight. Tomorrow we arrive in South Africa.

(Gayle read my blog and asked if it was all about food.  She told me I obviously take after our grandma. I guess she thinks I should write more about her.)

Heading Home

I left my curtains open so that I could see the ocean when I woke up.  I was up early and in my car headed towards home by 7 a.m.  I decided I wanted to drive the loop around Lake Quinault, which is on the southern edge of the Olympic National Park.  It took an hour.  Half of the road was a gravel road and had narrow bridges.

The view of Lake Quinault was beautiful.

I saw a huge gang of wild elk.

I stopped at Wolf Creek Tavern and Inn.  It is a historical site.  It was suggested to me as a great place to eat but it doesn't open until 5 p.m.  I stopped and took a photo.

Then I headed to Medford and my hotel.  I worked on my stories, updated my blog and watched the movie, "On the Basis of Sex."

Stories and Beauty

I woke up early and worked on stories for Song and Story Fest.  I had two of them shaped up by 9 a.m.  I had breakfast in the lodge and then headed out to conquer the day.  I went to the day use parking lot of Kalaloch Campground and headed down the hill in search of the Tree of Life. 

I started driving to Hoh Rainforest.  Somewhere between the 101 and the ranger station I quit conquering and started savoring. 

On the way to the rainforest trail I saw a black bear.

I started out on the Hall of Mosses trail.

I took my time.  I walked quietly and listened to the sounds of the forest.

I was in such a zen place I decided to also hike the Spruce Trail.

Another beautiful walk.

Back in my car I saw a gang of elk along the road.

I went into Forks to go to the grocery store and get fruit for lunch.  Then I headed to Beach 4.  My cousin said it was the best place to view tide pools.  Low tide was at 4:34 p.m. and I arrived at 4:15.  I headed down the steep hill.

The path down to the beach was treacherous for someone who has had three knee surgeries and one knee procedure.

The tide pools were amazing. The best I have ever seen.  I had the whole place to myself.

I went back to the lodge and wrote two more stories.  When it was dark outside I put in my air pods and went outside to dance under the stars!

Dungeness Spit to Kalaloch Lodge

Kathleen and I headed out to Stymies for Crab Benedict.  It was delicious.  We drove to the Dungeness Spit.  We headed down the hill.

The view from above was glorious.

We walked...

We looked at rocks...

We enjoyed the view.

When we got back to the house the septic tank was being pumped...ohhh...country living!

I bid good-bye to these good people and headed to Port Angeles.

I had lunch with my cousin Ardith who lives in a home with a view of the ocean and the mountains.  It was so good to reconnect with her.

From there I headed to Olympic National Park.  I passed Lake Crescent. 

I stopped at Ruby Beach, highly suggested by my cousin.

I walked down and crawled over the drift logs.  I crawled around on the rocks.

Then I headed to my hotel for the night.  I am staying at Kalaloch Lodge in a corner room with a view of the ocean.

I ate dinner in the lodge dining room.  I sat with a 59 year old woman veterinarian from the UK.  I enjoyed hearing the story of this stranger as we watched the sunset.

Hurricane Ridge to Murdoch Beach

After a delicious breakfast, Kathleen and I set out in her little red Fiat for an adventure.  We got some coffee and headed up the mountain to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park.   Just the drive up was incredible.

When we got to the top we admired the view.

Then we headed down the road that was blocked off to cars.  We walked 1.6 miles to the end of the road and then up the snowy hill.

We wanted a 360 degree view of the mountains and ocean around us.  We got it.

Going back down the snowy hill was more treacherous but we made it.

Then we hiked back wondering if we would ever make it.   We did.  We ate lunch in the gift shop/snack bar looking out the window at the beauty.

When we left, Kathleen turned on the heater in the car and took the top down so we could smell the pine and hear the wind in the trees.

On the way down we stopped at the look-out to get a great view of the Dungeness Spit where we will go tomorrow.

We hadn't had enough beauty for the day so Kathleen drove us to Murdoch Beach.  We got a bit lost on the way and found ourselves on a private road called Dew Not Enter Road.  We did anyway.  We eventually found our way to Murdoch Beach and hiked down the hill.

This beach is covered....and I mean covered...with rocks. 

We looked for agates and fossil rocks.  We were rewarded. 

We headed home well-sated with beauty.  Jeff had teriyaki kebabs waiting for us when we got home. It was delicious.  I headed to bed before I fell asleep on my plate.  I am blessed to have such good friends.