Happiness is not a matter of intensity
but of balance, order, rhythm and harmony.
-- Thomas Merton

Sunday, April 23, 2017

Day Three -- Pompeii

Up at 5:30 am to bananas and NescafĂ© in the room. We took the Metro one stop to Piazza Repubblic to meet our day tour to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. There were 13 people on the tour. We left at 7:08 am and arrived at 10:24. The man traveling with us, to make sure we connected with our guide  at Pompeii and got back on the van at the right time, spoke poor English and seemed completely uninterested in us having a good experience. I hoped it was not a foreshadowing of the whole day.  Our archaeological guide, Hillary, met us at the entrance to Pompeii on the side that had been the port. Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD covering this city with ash, pumus and poisonous gas, killing its citizens and making it an archaeological gold mine.

We hiked up a steep, uneven road to the business gate to the city. We stopped first at the basilica, the court of law. There were the most amazing sculptures there and I couldn't believe my eyes. It turns out that the sculptures were modern and added as an art exhibition.
 
Next to the forum (city square) with remains of the library, more columns, a good view of Mount Vesuvius and more sculptures.
 
We started down the streets where chariots rode and human waste flowed. It was a rigorous experience for two women with arthritis. We both arrived home sore and Gayle had a bruised knee. We saw homes where the colorful frescoes were partially intact and the mosaics on the floor were works of art. We saw the remains of stores that sold hot dishes and stores that sold bread. 
 
We saw tons of graffiti and stone depictions of penises used as signs pointing towards brothels or used as symbols of good luck. We walked through a brothel with frescoes of sexual positions so if the customer spoke a different language he could merely point to what he wanted to purchase. We learned that prostitutes were called lupas, or she wolves. This changes the mythological story of Romulus and Remus. Perhaps the story telling of them being raised by a she-wolf was a euphemism meaning they were raised by a prostitute.
 
Meanwhile, tons of children on field trips darted between us making the journey more perilous. We ended the tour at the ampitheatre -- a mini version of the Colosseum. They had a display (with sound included) as a tribute to the band Pink Floyd who played in the ampitheatre decades previous. 
 
We bid Hillary good-bye outside the gate looking at a display of body casts of victims of Mount Vesuvius -- frozen in time in the position of their deaths.
 
Back in the bus by 12:30 pm to head for the Amalfi Coast along a winding road on the cliff's edge. Never did our guide explain where we were or what we were seeing. We stopped once for a photo op and to purchase lemon granita (a delicious lemon slush of which I am a new fan). 
 
We arrived in Positano at 2 pm. Our guide said we had to be back at the van by 3:45 pm and that if we wanted to see the beach he would lead us down. It was such a steep descent we lost him around the first corner. We were the oldest two people on the tour and so the whole group was out of sight in no time. No worries. It is a narrow, steep town and it isn't hard to find the path that leads to the water. We ate at a restaurant that is situated next to the beach. The English translation of the restaurant's name is Three Sisters. Your bill comes with a postcard that you are supposed to send to your sister. I saved mine to write my sister when I get home and thank her for going on this adventure with me. We people watched while we ate sauted zucchini, roasted potatoes, grilled asparagus and caprese. Gayle and I gravitate to the side dishes portion of the menu. 
 
We hurried back up the hill to meet our crazy deadline. Little shops of art, clothing and ceramic dishes line the steep sidewalk. I bought myself a turquoise wool cape to remind me of this day.  Back on the van and the four and a half hour trek back to Piazza Repubblic. We took the Metro to Bernini and bought gelato and pastries. I got black cherry gelato -- my favorite so far. Back to the room to pack and charge our electronics. We leave for Assisi in the morning.

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