I left my sliding glass door open last night and I awoke to the sound of waves and barking sea lions. It was low tide and showed the black sand of this area of coastline.
Shelter Cove, CA has a population of 500 most of the year but it increases to 700 in the summer. Unlike any other experience I have had of staying near the beach this town is not overcome with tourists. I hardly saw anyone else. A sheet in my room told of the places I could find food. There was only one place open for breakfast on a Monday. I headed there but made a stop along the way to watch the harbor seals.
Coffee and a bagel purchased I drove around the burg of Shelter Cove. I waited for a fox and a deer to cross the road. The small number of humans here means a larger population of other animals. I found myself thinking of how I would like to come here again and stay longer. My harrowing drive of yesterday was already receding from my memory. But as I drove out of town my body reacted viscerally. I really was frightened yesterday, I hoped that my experience out of here would be better than my experience coming here. It was. There was actually a center line and two lanes on the Briceland Road.
Instead of heading south to Matt and Melissa's home in Berkeley, I headed north to the Avenue of the Giants -- another scenic drive according to National Geographic. This time I did more research. I have been driving through redwood forests but there was no safe place to stop and walk through these majestic trees. The Avenue of the Giants has multiple places (with safe turnouts) where you can get out and hike. The road was lovely.
I got out for a walk and had the forest to myself.
I have been in Humboldt County renowned as the place where hippies moved from San Francisco to live off the grid. With the legalization of marijuana, former off-the-grid cannabis growers have gone into an existential crisis. To now grow pot legally requires following regulations about use of water, protection of the spotted owl, etc., etc. These are people that have avoided contact with lawyers and governmental agencies. I would say the vibe in Humboldt County is wary. There are also many artisans here. You can stop on the side of the road for all your tie-dye needs or to buy a statue fashioned by a chain saw.
I stopped to drive through a tree. But as I got ready to do it I realized just what a tight squeeze it would be. The minivan family in front of me took care of me by tucking in my sideview mirrors, taking photos with my cell phone and safely directing me through this claustrophobic experience, They were fun and open and definitely not from Humboldt County.
I finally headed south towards Berkeley. I made one stop in Healdsburg in wine county. I wanted to bring Melissa a gift. Melissa is not a huge fan of sweets but she does love ham. I had looked up a specialty butcher in Healdsburg. When I saw them in Portland a few days ago I had brought Matt some fair trade truffles from Fran's Chocolates in Seattle.
I got to Berkeley before rush hour got too crazy. It is so good to see them and be in their home. We ate Korean food for dinner and watched Nathan Fiedler's new (very bizarre) show -- The Rehearsal. Matt showed me what I can do to help the editing process of my podcast. My road trip is bookend with visits with my sons of their partners. It is a great way to begin and end this adventure.
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