Happiness is not a matter of intensity
but of balance, order, rhythm and harmony.
-- Thomas Merton

Wednesday, January 24, 2024

Adventures with Chinda

I left my curtain open so I could wake up for the sunrise this morning.  It is cloudy and windy today so it wasn’t as spectacular as I had hoped.  But I have three more mornings to wake up in this beautiful place.  I had washed out some clothes last night and left them on the balcony to dry.  When I went out there this morning, everything was scattered everywhere.  I chalked it up to monkeys.  I was missing a sock and since I brought limited clothing with me I was disappointed.  But then I looked down and saw my sock three stories below.  I think the wind came up in the night and blew my clothing around.  I rode the elevator down in my nightgown and retrieved my lost sock.  I love my Bombas.

We enjoyed the breakfast buffet that came with our hotel room reservation.  It was extensive.  They obviously work at catering to every nationality.  Yves’ parents put him in a high chair and attempted for the first time to give him some fruit — papaya, watermelon and dragon fruit.  He didn’t get the concept.  He thought he should use them for finger-painting. He was covered in dragon fruit seeds by the end of the meal but he was so happy and proud.  

In the middle of our meal the Dusky Langur monkeys arrived into the rafters of the open-air breakfast area.  The wait staff was immediately on edge.  They spoke of getting a sling shot.  But they reverted to banging spoons together and this made the monkeys scurry off to the next rooftop, but not until they have left some feces behind.  I will be very careful where I sit tomorrow.

Chinda and I decided to head out on an adventure together.  We grabbed our walking sticks and headed to the south.  It was high tide and the trunks of the trees were covered in water.  The boat to carry out the trash we tourists make was loaded and ready to head out.

We got to the south edge of East Railay and made a right to cross this spit of land to the southern portion of West Railay Beach. It is a lovely walk past stalactites and stalagmites with trees and vines growing around them.

We came to the trailhead for the East Railay view point.  I had read that it was rigorous and dangerous but nothing could have prepared me for the lack of an actual trail.

As Chinda and I were staring with wonder at this “trail” and the insane people who were heading up it, a woman said, “It is terrifying and I am afraid of heights.”  I said, “Did you just get down?”  “Yes,” she said, “but I didn’t make it very far.”  I said, “I read that there isn’t really that good of a view and besides you wouldn’t want a broken ankle.  It would ruin your trip.”  She said,  “I could live with a broken ankle but it was the loss of life I was worried about.  But my friends are up there and I feel bad about myself.”  

Chinda and I walked on slowly on our flat even concrete path, heads bent down to make sure that each step we took would be a safe one.  Chinda said, “I walk like I’m looking for pennies.”  We made it to the other side and were rewarded with this view.

Railay Beach is known as a place to go rock climbing.  All around the area there are groups set up to help the inexperienced and experienced rock climbers fulfill their need for adventure.  

I had read a blog about the Phra Nang Cave as a great place to enjoy Railay.  I found the cave and inside was a shrine.  A sign read: “Do not offer these five things to Pranang:  sex toys, red water, red flower, traditional Thai costume, strange offerings.  She isn’t a god.  She is Indian.  She believes in the phallus or lingam as a symbol of the Hindu god Shiva.”

All around the cave shrine were wooden penises…I mean everywhere.  Of course, every tourist had to have their photo taken touching one.

I also read that hardly anyone goes to this cave area but that is simply not true.  It was teeming with people because it is such a photogenic place.

There are constant boat loads of tourists on a four island hopping excursion.  People arrived in droves for their Instagrammable photo and their 45 minutes on Railay Beach.  So I took a photo of Chinda.

We decided to walk further north on this side but the tide was high and it was hard going.  I suggested we turn back but Chinda wanted to soldier on.  She said we could just dodge the waves.  In among the young and gorgeous were these two old women in tennis shoes and walking sticks.  We eventually took our shoes off but the waves were strong and relentless.  Our feet and walking sticks would get buried in the sand with each wave.   Finally, some kind of official yelled at us in Thai and motioned for us to turn around.  Chinda translated for me that he told her the current was too strong and we needed to turn back.  It was incredibly strong and we turned around and headed back the way we came, with some serious struggle.  We encountered the woman I had talked with earlier.  I said, “You shouldn’t feel bad about yourself, we couldn’t even make it walking on the beach.”  She said, “You shouldn’t feel bad either.  I walked up to that end and it is so windy that all you experience is sand hitting your face.”  Chinda and I put our shoes back on and returned the way we came.  We found a place where we could get some cold drinks and look out at the Andaman sea, enjoying this beautiful place in the way two old women with bad knees should.

The path back to our hotel is narrow and right against the water.  It wasn’t high tide but it wasn’t low tide, either.   We had to time our walk trying not to get soaked by the waves.  We got pretty wet.
While Chinda and I went for a walk, Matt and Melissa introduced Yves to the ocean.  He has found his inner water boy.


I went back to my room and washed off the sand and relaxed in my room.  When I got hungry I headed out in search of some food.  I had a Thai pancake.  I can recommend it.  I walked over to West Railway beach.  The place was packed with tourists and there were long tail boats everywhere.  

I know why people come to Railay Beach.  It is beautiful. But it was unbearable hot today so I didn’t linger, especially seeing all the burnt sunbathers.


We ate dinner at our hotel restaurant tonight.  It was good.  Yves was in a very talkative mood.  You could tell he was trying to work on sounds/words.  It sounded like he either said, “Hi, dada” or “Hi, Yai,” which is Thai for maternal grandmother.  Matt and Chinda discussed who Yves was saying hi to while Melissa and I sat quietly by.  We listed all the milestones Yves has achieved in the month we have been together.  It is fun to spend so much time with him at such a pivotal developmental time.  

The rest of the group headed up to their rooms after dinner but I decided I wanted to go for a walk in the cool breeze of the evening.  There is a full moon tomorrow night and I wanted to take advantage of the moon.   I hadn’t gone far when I realized that the cool breeze I wanted to enjoy was more of a gust of wind.  My dress flew up to my waist and it wasn’t a Marilyn Monroe moment.  I immediately turned around and headed to my room in embarrassment.  Lesson learned.  Don’t go for a walk in a billowy dress when your weather app says, “windy conditions expected.”  

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