Happiness is not a matter of intensity
but of balance, order, rhythm and harmony.
-- Thomas Merton

Monday, January 8, 2024

We made it to Siem Reap

We were up and ready before 4:45 a.m.  Our transport to the airport was early also.  Even at this hour of the morning our street was hopping with tourists.  It took a bit of time to get our tickets because, while they had Yves’ reservation, he didn’t seem to be tied to any adult.  Tickets in hand we headed to our gate only to be quickly ushered out of the line and rerouted to Fast Track because there is an infant in our family group.

Thanks to Matt and Melissa we got our coffee and breakfast in the Miracle Lounge.  Brett and Brendon are on the same flight.  We waved to them in their lounge.  Because of being with Yves, we boarded ahead of First and Business class.  The flight to Siem Reap lasted less than a hour, but still they managed to do a full meal flight service.  I couldn’t face shrimp spaghetti at 8 a.m. so I took a pass.

We landed at Siem Reap’s new airport, open only since October.  First we got in line to buy a visa.  It cost 30 USD and they were meticulous about only accepting very crisp bills.  You start at window 1 to turn in your paper work.  Then you move to window 4 to make sure your payment was made in crisp bills.  Then finally to window 9 to get your passport returned with the visa in it.  Next we queued up again to have our passports validated.  Finally to baggage claim and then out through customs.  It was so much slower and more complicated than other international terminals I have navigated.

Melissa had arranged for a van from our hotel to pick us up.  It is an hour’s drive from Siem Reap airport to the city of Siem Reap.  Painit was our driver.  He greeted us with cold towels and bottles of cold water.  The hour went by quickly.  Our hotel Saem Siam Reap is a fine place to spend the next several nights and the area around the hotel is quiet. By the time we arrived and settled into our rooms it was time for lunch. Matt created a spreadsheet for this trip and it included possible restaurants for all locations. He learned that one of the restaurants that was high on his list was closed because today is a holiday in Cambodia — Victory Over Genocide Day.  It celebrates the end of the Khmer Rouge regime in 1979.  We decided on a different restaurant called Mesa.

Matt, Melissa, Chinda and Yves went by car.  Brett, Brendon and I rode in a tuktuk for $3.  I’m sure they are less than safe but they are fun!

Mesa is located on a street catering to tourists.  Across from Mesa you can get a crocodile burger.  Nearby you can have fish nibble the dead skin off your feet.

Service is the name of the game at this restaurant.  The waitress was incredibly attentive, checking constantly to make sure everything was to our satisfaction.  When a tourist would check out the menu outside their restaurant, a server would run out with an umbrella to keep them shaded while they decided whether or not to come inside and eat. It was over the top.

We ordered an eclectic lunch of crab fried spring rolls, satay, curries, barbecue pork ribs, potato cheese balls and shrimp paste with fresh vegetables.  Before our food arrived the waitress brought cold towels, pineapple juice and vegetable spring rolls. 

If you would have told me five years ago that I would be in Cambodia with both of my sons, their spouses, my grandchild and his other grandma I would not have believed you.  But here I am, living my best life.

At the end of meal our waitress came and pretty much scooped Yves right out of his mother’s arms.  I am not sure I can fully convey just what a hit this boy is everywhere we go.

After lunch we went for a walk.  I was interested in the street art.



We had been commenting on how much cooler Siem Reap seems compared to Bangkok.  But after our walk we were all just as hot and sweaty as we had been in Bangkok.  We walked down by the Siem Reap river, past the Siem Reap headquarters for the Cambodian People’s Party and to a little market of goods made in Cambodia.  I got some earrings and Brett and Brendon bought the requisite elephant pants.  We went back by the same transportation but this time our tuktuk was half the size and half the price.

Back at the hotel, we sat beside the pool and figured out how we want to see Angkor Wat tomorrow.  We opted for a minivan with an English speaking tour guide to meet us at the hotel at 7 a.m.  Brett went in search of a fresh coconut to drink and the rest of us headed to our rooms to recuperate. 

 Just as I was almost asleep my doorbell rang.  A hotel staff member was delivering a plate of “welcome” fruit — lychees, bananas and mandarins.  I’m afraid I am going to get used to the incredible service of Siem Reap and expect to be treated like this when I get back home.

After resting I headed down to the hotel restaurant for a bowl of pumpkin soup.  Tomorrow starts early.

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